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The First-Time Life Color Plus Client

The first Life Color Plus appointment with a new client decides the next two years of them. Almost everything that goes wrong later — the formula that never quite covers, the tone that drifts, the correction nobody planned for — traces back to something not established on day one.

FarmaVita Life Color Plus 100ml permanent hair colour tubes
160 shades, one price. Choosing the right one on day one costs no more than choosing the nearest one.

Before the appointment: the 48-hour test

The manufacturer's instruction is explicit: conduct a patch test 48 hours before applying the colour. Not on the day, not while the client sits in the chair — 48 hours.

That has a practical consequence most salons under-plan for: a new colour client is a two-visit booking from the start. A short test appointment, then the service. Building that into how you take the booking is easier than explaining on the day why you cannot proceed, and it is the point at which your insurer's expectations and the manufacturer's instructions line up exactly.

Four things to establish before you formulate

What Why it changes the formula
The natural base level Everything is calculated from it. Check at the root, in daylight, not at the ends.
Percentage of white The protocol forks at 50%. Below it, the shade goes on alone; above it, half the mix is a natural.
Colour history Box colour, henna and old permanent all behave differently from virgin hair — and decide whether an incompatibility test is needed.
Warm or cool preference Decides .03 against .07 at the same depth, and it is a question rather than a judgement.

Assess the white percentage deliberately — section at the crown and the temples and look at each separately. Most heads are not uniform, the temples are usually ahead of the rest, and you formulate for the heaviest section rather than the average. More on that in the grey coverage guide.

Ask about henna, specifically

"Have you ever used henna?" is a separate question from "have you coloured it before?" Clients frequently do not consider henna to be colouring, and metallic salts in some home products can react with peroxide. That is what the incompatibility test is for, and it is the one test people skip because the client said the hair was natural.

Virgin hair goes on in two stages

A first full-head application is not one application. The manufacturer's guidance is a total of around 40 minutes in two stages: roughly 20 minutes on the lengths and ends first, then apply the roots and give them a further 20.

The reason is scalp heat. Roots process faster than lengths on every head, every time. Applying everything at once on virgin hair gives you the classic first-timer result — a bright band at the root and under-processed ends — and the client has no way of knowing that was avoidable.

Standard ratio, standard developer. Life Color Plus mixes 1:1.5 — 50ml of colour to 75ml of Life Cream Developer — for ordinary work. Heavy white moves to 1:1, and the high-lift shades to 1:2. Which developer volume to reach for is set out in the developer article.

Write the formula down properly

Not "6.35 + 20 vol". That is half a record. The version that is worth having six weeks later:

  • Shades and proportions — including the natural, if there is one, and in what ratio
  • Developer volume and mixing ratio — because 1:1 and 1:1.5 are different services
  • Timing, and whether you extended it
  • Base level and white percentage on the day — the white percentage moves, and knowing where it was is how you notice
  • What the result actually did — pulled warm, took slowly, grabbed at the ends

That last line is the one that separates a formula card from a useful one. A client whose hair takes fast is a fact about them, not about that appointment, and it should follow them.

Set the expectation before you mix, not after

Three things a first-time colour client needs to hear, and none of them are bad news if said early:

  1. When the regrowth will show. Give a number of weeks, and book it before they leave.
  2. What the tone will do. Reds fade fastest; cool tones drift warm; both are chemistry rather than a fault.
  3. Whether this is one appointment or a plan. If they have arrived with a photo three levels away from where they are, say so now. Reading the hair rather than the photo covers that conversation.

Clients accept limitations explained in advance. They do not accept them explained afterwards, and the difference between the two is entirely a matter of timing.

One habit that pays for itself

Strand test on a new client even when you are confident. It takes minutes, it tells you how this particular head takes colour, and on a first appointment you have no history to draw on — which is exactly when a surprise is most expensive.

Because every one of the 160 variants is £3.49, there is also no cost penalty to opening the right tube rather than the closest one you already have. That is unusual in professional colour, and on a first appointment it is worth using.


Life Color Plus at the chair — part 1 of 5.
Next: The six-week root touch-up, done properly →

Ratios, timings and the 48-hour patch test are the manufacturer's own published instructions. Professional product for salon use only — always follow the directions supplied with the product.

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